Riva Bella Naturist Resort in Corsica, France: Revisited

Some resorts are exactly what you expect them to be. A beach, a pool, some sunbeds, and a bar. Pleasant enough, but no real surprises. Riva Bella is not that kind of resort. We very well remember the moment when we arrived in this part of Corsica and started to understand the scale of the place, 79 hectares to be specific, and how we realised that it was going to take some time to figure everything out.

That’s already a few years ago, and we knew that it would take us more than one visit to be able to genuinely say that we know the resort. Even after our third visit, we’re not entirely sure we can. But we’ll give it our best shot.

Corsica is well connected by air, with Bastia-Poretta Airport on the northern end of the eastern coast being the most convenient arrival point for Riva Bella. From Bastia, the resort is roughly a 40-minute drive south along the eastern coastal road. If you’re coming from the mainland by ferry, the port at Bastia offers regular crossings from Nice, Marseille, and Genoa. If you’re coming from the south, by air or boat, you’re looking at a roughly 2-hour drive.

Riva Bella is located in the commune of Aléria, in a relatively flat part of Corsica that feels quite different from the dramatic mountain scenery you see in the distance. The surrounding landscape here is quieter, more rural, and the resort sits right at the edge of the sea.

Riva Bella has one of the broadest ranges of accommodation options we’ve encountered at a naturist resort. It covers camping, mobile homes, and stone villas, so whether you’re travelling with a tent or looking for something more comfortable, there’s likely something that will work for you.

The camping pitches are divided into different zones. Beachfront pitches are quite spectacular, waking up with the sea right there is hard to beat, but they are in high demand and fill up quickly. Especially in high season. This also means a certain cosiness that not everyone appreciates. The forested areas further back are split between flatter sections closer to the beach, which are also popular for obvious reasons, and more sloping pitches a little further inland. Those inland spots offer more space and privacy if that’s what you’re looking for.

If camping isn’t your thing, the rental options probably will be. Most are in mobile home style, but there are also stone villas scattered around the property. Some rentals are right on the beach and come with complimentary sunrise views. Others are positioned a little higher up, giving you views of both the seagulls over the sea and the flamingoes in the lake.

All rentals come with an equipped kitchen(ette), at least one bedroom, a sitting area, and a terrace. When we visited in mid-September, we had a look around several different options, and what struck us was the variety. You can go budget-friendly and functional if you wish, or scale up to something more spacious and comfortable.

The nude beach is certainly one of the highlights. It runs along the full length of the resort and continues north in front of a military domain, where nudity is also considered the norm (on the beach, not necessarily by the soldiers, although we can’t confirm that). So in practice, you have a very long stretch of coastline to enjoy. Sunbeds and umbrellas are available, and the water here is usually calm and warm. Paddle boards and kayaks can be used if you want to have some exercise.

The thalasso centre is what really sets Riva Bella apart from most clothes-free resorts. It’s a proper wellness facility, not just a sauna tucked in a corner somewhere. The centrepiece is a seawater circuit with hydro-massage jets designed to help with circulation and remineralisation. Beyond that, there’s a full menu of treatments, various massage styles, and spa therapies. It’s the kind of place where you can easily spend an entire day. Or several, as we’ve seen quite a few people do. In fact, for guests who are into wellness, this alone is a reason to choose Riva Bella over any other place.

Something that’s been added more recently is a network of walking trails through the coastal landscape on the outskirts of the resort. 79 kilometres, remember? That’s quite a lot of outskirts to discover. Hiking the trails is best done naturally, obviously. It’s a good way to get a feel of the natural Corsican landscape, which in this part of the island means scrub, coastal vegetation, and open skies.

Riva Bella also has an on-site shop for essentials and a restaurant that serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner. The menu leans into local Corsican food, which we much appreciated. During the summer, there’s regular evening entertainment at the restaurant.

For families, there’s a kids club, playground, outdoor fitness area, and a programme of activities throughout the season with the usual suspects like pilates, yoga, stretching, or aqua gym. There’s also fibre Wi-Fi across the whole resort, which is either entirely unnecessary or quietly reassuring depending on your relationship with your phone.

And then there are the residents. The llamas at Riva Bella are among our personal favourite features of the place. They are very used to humans and will usually completely ignore you, unless you arrive with a handful of food. The property also has pigs, and the lakes attract a range of birds. Ducks and storks are common. Flamingos are more seasonal. Walking around naked with a flamingo on one side and a llama on the other is something that only happens in dreams and at Riva Bella.

Riva Bella is on the eastern coast of Corsica, in an area that’s relatively quiet compared to the island’s more visited northern and southern shores. The nearest town is Aléria, a small settlement with a modest but interesting Roman history. There are ruins and a small museum worth a visit if you’re curious about the island’s past.

Corsica’s interior is not far, and even from this flatter coastal area, the mountains are visible on clear days. The Col de Verde and the surrounding forest areas are a reasonable drive if you want a change of scenery. The city of Bastia to the north is the main urban option for a day out, with an attractive old port area, a citadel, and enough restaurants and shops to fill an afternoon.

A general highlight of Corsica is its cuisine. The island has a strong food culture built around local produce like charcuterie, cheeses, and fresh ingredients that taste like they haven’t travelled far to reach your plate. And if you haven’t explored the island’s wines before, this is another great reason to come over.

The crowd at Riva Bella is a fairly broad mix. When we visited, we saw families making full use of the kids’ activities, couples heading into the thalasso centre, people setting up for long beach days, and others heading out on the trails. The resort is large enough that different types of guests tend to find their own rhythm without getting in each other’s way.

The atmosphere is relaxed and welcoming. It doesn’t feel like a resort that takes itself too seriously, which is part of the appeal. You can be as active or as horizontal as you want, and nobody is going to judge either approach.

Riva Bella operates seasonally, as most European naturist resorts do. The summer months, July and August, are the busiest. This is when the beachfront pitches and more popular rental options book up well in advance. The weather is reliably warm, the sea is at its best, and the full programme of activities and entertainment is running.

Mid-September, which is when we visited, felt like a good balance. The crowds had thinned out, the weather was still excellent, and the sea remained warm enough for comfortable swimming. Early June can also work well for a quieter experience with most facilities already open.

Unlike most other European resorts, Riva Bella is open year-round. But it should be noted that nudity is only allowed from the beginning of April to the end of October. Which are the only comfortable months to be naked outside anyway.

Reservations are definitely recommended during the high season and for rental accommodations.

Can you have dinner naked?
The restaurant at Riva Bella has a clothing policy. For breakfast and lunch, a quick cover-up like a sarong is normally enough, but for dinner, you are expected to be properly dressed. Also the shop requires you to cover up.

Are singles allowed?
Yes, everybody is welcome at Riva Bella.

Are the llamas dangerous to kids?
We’ve never heard of any incidents with the llamas, and they have been there for a very long time. Honestly, in our opinion, they are quite asocial and will avoid close contact with people unless you’re really looking for it (read: bring food). Hundreds of families visit Riva Bella each year, so you can be certain that your kids will be fine.

Is it good for families with teenagers?
It’s been a long time since we were teenagers, but given the variety of activities and the size of the resort, we would say that Riva Bella is a pretty good place to take your teenage kids.

Is wifi really everywhere?
Riva Bella is proud of having cable wifi coverage around the resort. We didn’t check out every small corner, but we were well connected on our camping pitch, on the beach, and in the restaurant.